Iona is a tiny island - only three and a half miles long by one
and a half across - separated from Mull by about a mile of water.
Regular visitors to Iona travel through Mull
by car or coach and cross the Sound of Iona by ferry from Fionnphort.
The landing-point is the pier just to the south of the Abbey, at
the foot of a hill that leads up the school. On the right is the
village, its picturesque cottages overlooking the shore. There are
only about seventy houses on the island, and nearly twenty of them
are here. Climbing the hill directly from the jetty the visitor
soon encounters the first of Iona's ruins - the remains of the Benedictine
Nunnery founded in 1203 by Reginald MacDonald of Islay, Lord of
the Isles, is on the right. At the top of the hill there is a junction;
visitors to the cathedral turn right here, while those who have
time to explore more of the island could take the other turning
which leads to the south and Port a'Churaich, the Port of the Coracle,
where Columba first set foot on the island.
Centuries
before the arrival of St Columba on Iona in 563 the island had been
adopted as a centre of religion by sun-worshipping Druids. Like
Columba, these priests of the Dark Ages must have sensed something
unique in the atmosphere of Iona, a quality that still sets it apart
as a spiritual oasis. Perhaps it was the sparkling clarity of its
light that appealed to these early mystics, for here the sky seems
to open directly to Heaven not only as the sun goes down in comparable
splendour, but throughout any sunny day when the cloud that hangs
over the mainland and Mull miraculously breaks to bathe Iona in
light that seems even brighter against the sombre unlit hills on
the opposite shore. Of course it's no use pretending that Iona escapes
those days of unrelieved wetness that Western Scotland provides
quite regularly, but it is true that Iona enjoys a substantial amount
more sunshine than places to the east.
The
Nunnery is the first reminder of Iona's long ecclesiastical history
that the modern visitor to the island will encounter. Only a small
community of nuns would have lived here, and the ruins are important
in that they show so well how such a foundation was designed. The
church is on the north side of a quadrangle, the centre of which
served as a cloister. Opposite the church are the remains of the
Refectory, while those of the Chapter-house are on the east side.
The buildings have been ruinous for nearly three hundred years,
though enough survives to make the Nunnery both romantic and interesting.
The peace that the nuns must have enjoyed can still be appreciated
in the lovely gardens of the cloister.
The Nunnery Museum is situated in St Ronan's Chapel, just to the
north of the ruined church. The Chapel has been re-roofed to house
many of the interesting carved stones that were formerly scattered
about the surrounding area. It was once the Parish Church of Iona
and dates from about the same time as the Nunnery.
The
first of the famous High Crosses of Iona stands opposite the Parish
Church and Manse. This is MacLean's Cross, which on its weathered
western face has a portrayal of Christ Crucified. Its less weather-beaten
east side is covered with an intricate Celtic design. It was commissioned
by a member of the Clan MacLean in the latter part of the fifteenth
century. The Church and Manse date from 1828 when they were built
to one of Telford's 'parliamentary' designs. The architect, more
famous for his roads and bridges than his churches, was commissioned
by the government to provide several standard plans from which forty-two
new churches would be built in the Highlands and Islands.
Beyond the hotel is the Reilig Oran - the graveyard of Oran - the
sacred burial place of the early Kings of Scotland, Ireland, and
Norway. St. Oran, from which it takes its name was one of Columba's
followers who accompanied him to Iona. A macabre legend tells how,
when first landing on the island, Oran suggested that he should
be buried alive as a living sacrifice to the island which would
thus be sanctified. Columba accepted this idea and so Oran was buried.
After three days the grave was opened up and Columba and his monks
were horrified to find Oran still alive. As he spoke the words,
'There is no such great wonder in death, nor is hell what it has
been described', Columba hastily ordered, 'Earth, earth on Oran's
eyes, lest he further blab', and so the unfortunate Oran was re-entombed.
With the re-establishment of a religious community on the island
perhaps Columba's famous prophesy is fulfilled:
Iona of my heart,
Iona of my love,
Instead of monks' voices
Shall be the lowing of cattle;
But ere the world come to an end,
Iona shall be as it was.
Today this island offers us the rare chance of escaping from nearly
all of the unwelcome trappings of the twenty-first century; to a
great many people it is the desert island of dreams come true -
whether or not one is religious there is a spiritual peace to be
found here, perhaps best reflected in the words of the composer
Mendelssohn, after his visit to Iona in 1829:
when in some future time I shall sit in a madly crowded
assembly with music and dancing round me, and the wish arises
to retire into the loneliest loneliness, I shall think of Iona
The
Sound of Iona separates Iona from Mull and the visitor soon feels
that the distance is much further, for Iona is more akin to the
island of the Outer Hebrides that it is to Mull. Low craggy hills
overlook the narrow sandy beaches and small coves of the east coast;
in the north and west the beaches are of the dazzling shell-sand,
and the waves that break on them have a purity of colour unique
to the Hebrides. The translucent atmosphere generally allows the
outer island to be seen clearly, as well as the closer shore of
Staffa, Ulva and Mull.
The broad western beaches of Iona are backed by machair lands of
rich pasture, another feature of the isles further to the west.
In the south the coastline is more rugged; at one point a fault
in the cliffs shoots a spout of water hundred feet into the air
if conditions are rough. At the southernmost tip of the island is
the rocky inlet where Columba disembarked from his coracle.
If you would like to visit Iona the following
tours will take you there:
This excursion is one of the best day tours in Britain, providing a scenic route through the beautiful isle of Mull
and a visit to the Isle of Iona to see the famous abbey, but the highlight of this tour is the awe-inspiring visit to the unique Isle of Staffa to see Fingal's Cave.
This tour departs rom the Ferry Terminal, Railway Pier, Oban on Caledonian Macbrayne's MV Isle of Mull, crossing the Firth of Lorne to Craignure on Mull where you join our private coach. The scenic route through the Island is via Glen More to Fionnphort where you board the ferry for Staffa. After landing on Staffa and visiting Fingal's Cave, you sail south to Iona. There is now an opportunity to have a late lunch or snack at Martyr's Bay Restaurant, which is conveniently situated near Iona pier. Later take a leisurely stroll through the Benedictine nunnery and the Reilig Oran - the burial place of the kings - on the route to Iona Abbey.
Mon
Tue
Wed
Thu
Fri
Sat
Sun
Oban
Depart
09.50
09.50
09.50
09.50
09.50
09.30
09.50
Return
19.45
19.45
19.45
19.45
19.45
19.45
19.45
Adult Fare:
£45.00
Child Fare:
£23.00
Season: 21/03/2008 - 22/10/2008 On Saturdays and Sundays prior to 20th May and after 9th September the return is at 17.45
This tour to Mull, Iona and Staffa is similar to the Three Isles Excursion. It leaves Oban earlier in the morning, offering the chance to avoid the crowds and enjoy a more leisurely day with time on Iona for lunch and to explore the island. You also save with the 'Early Bird' Special Fare.
Mon
Tue
Wed
Thu
Fri
Sat
Sun
Oban
Depart
7.45
7.45
7.45
7.45
7.30
Return
17.45
17.45
17.45
17.45
17.45
Adult Fare:
£43.00
Child Fare:
£22.00
Season: 21/03/2008 - 22/10/2008
This tour is now operated by Bowmans Coaches Tel: 01631 566809